It's Racing Heritage
MERTYLE COTTAGE HILLCOT
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LANGLEY VALE AND IT'S CONNECTIONS TO HORSE RACING
If it had not been for the racing on Epsom Downs it's quite likely that the village of Langley Vale would never have existed. But, like everything, the village eventually evolved around the racing industry and became part of it. Trainers came here and set up training stables in the 1920s and 1930s and many of the village residents worked within the industry in some capacity or another. The village was home to both Trainers and Lads, alike. During the 1960's there were 15 trainers based in Langley Vale which made it quite a racing hamlet. Sadly, as the yards closed the lands were sold off for development and the village again evolved into the village we know today.
Mertyle Cottage in Rosebery Road was formally one of the many racing stables that were located within the village. It has been owned by Philip Nunnerley, Michael Blackmore and Peter Thrale. Other racing stables in the village were : "St. Margaret's" owned by ex-jockey George Duller and situated at the bottom of Beaconsfield Road, "Hillcot" owned by Cecil Ray and situated in Beaconsifield Road ; "Gondola" (later "Mannamead") owned by Percy Allden and situated in Beaconsfield Road near The Hayes and "Start Side" owned by Major Mayers and run by George Allden - subsequent owners were Jack Langlands and Peter Thrale (1951). "Start Side" was situtated at the top of Beaconsfield Road. In the 1920's Percy Allden also trained at "L'Etoile", a stables which may have been his first site in Beaconsifeld Road opposite Mannamead and in the 1950's Stanley Wootton of Treadwell House, Epsom had taken over Langley Bottom Farm. Many people from the village were employed in the racing industry and racing and the horses became part of our everyday life. The photos of Mertyle Cottage and Hilcot were taken in 2004.
Another local trainer was Geoff Lewis who rode the famous "Mill Reef" to win the 1971 Derby. Geoff later came to train at Thirty Acres Barn, in nearby Shepherd's Walk and was frequently seen out on the Downs early in the morning with his little Jack Russell Terrier. Geoff was the guest of honour at the Derby 200 Dinner which was organised by Brenda Dillon and held in the Village Hall in 1980. Brenda's husband was ex-jockey, Mick Dillon and they lived in Grosvenor Road. Mick was Head Lad to Percy Allden at Gondola Stables and Staff Ingham trained the apprentices. Bill Footitt, who also lived in Grosvenor Road was Head Lad and valet to George Duller.
In addition to the racing yards, Langley Vale was for many years home to the Metropolitan Police Stables who stabled their horses at Mannamead. Later, purpose built stables were built for the Met in Beaconsfield Road but when Epsom joined the Surrey police force the horses were transferred to inner London and the stables became redundant and were closed. The development known as Stable Close was built on the site. The Villagers fought long and hard for the stables to be built and for the horses to be retained in the village but sadly, this was not to be.
DOWNS HOUSE (SHERWOOD'S COTTAGE)
Once the home of Col. Dennis O'Kelly it was here that one of the most famous racehorses ever, "Eclipse", was trained. Originally known as Melision Lodge, during the second half of the 19th century it was occupied by the Sherwood family and called Sherwood's Cottage. It later became known as Downs House. The present house is believed to date from the end of the 18th century with later additions. It bears the date of 1791. The stables are not the original but the barn is and is Listed by English Heritage. It is possible that it is not the original house and than an earlier one existed. It was here that the famous Derby winner of 1838, Amato was trained. Amato was owned by Sir Gilbert Heathcote of the Durdans in Chalk Lane. The pub in Chalk Lane was renamed The Amato in honour of this famous local Derby winner.
In 1881 Ralph Sherwood, a Yorkshire man, was the trainer here, aged 78. This picture dates from sometime before 1895. My sincere thanks to "Bill" for allowing me use his photograph.
This photo is of what we know today as Downs House Racing Stables which, in the 19th century was known as Sherwood's Cottage when it was occupied by the Sherwood family. Phillip Mitchell now trains at Downs House.
THE RUBBING HOUSE
Although not exactly in Langley Vale the Rubbing House had been used over the years as the village 'local'. Reputed to be the only pub in England to be situated at the end of the winning post. There had been a public house of that name for years on the site of the old rubbing house, where horses were rubbed down between heats. On 3 June 1857 a fire broke out and consumed the Rubbing House and the stablings and outbuildings belonging to it. In 1863 plans were drawn up for a new hotel, the Downs Hotel, costing £80,000 - five times as much as the Grand Stand had cost 35 years earlier. These plans were later scaled down and the present building was built. It was still called the Downs Hotel when I first came to the village in the late 1960s but, in latter years, has reverted to its original name, the Rubbing House. In 2003/2004 it was renovated and extended to include a restaurant, keeping much of its original features. This photo was taken in about 1991.
Plans for the Langley Vale Road underpass were first suggested back in 1948 but due to the lack of money and lack of building permits at the time, no action had been taken. Again, in 1965 the Epsom Grandstand Association announced that it hoped work would start in the Autumn of that year but again the plans were not given top priority. However, it was finally completed in April, 1971, at a cost of £216,000 - more than four times the original estimate of nine years earlier.
THE WARREN & WARRENER'S COTTAGE
This picture shows The Warren and Warrener's Cottage about 1914. Originally built as a hunting lodge for King Charles II, The Warren at one time was used as a stud farm when J. H. Durand, Esq., was breeding horses there in 1801. It was later owned by Benjamin Ellam, a saddlemaker and whip manufacturer from London, who bred and raced horses there. Benjamin Ellam's horse Tormentor was the winner of the 1866 Oaks. Under the ownership of Ellam, the house was condsiderably enlarged to make it suitable for entertaining the distinguished company attracted by racing. The house was demolished about 1920 and was probably the house which had burnt down in about 1914. Warrener's Cottage still exists.
During the days when Epsom was famous for being a Spa town a Well was also to be found at The Warren. The picture above shows the Old Well and the sign states " WELL HOUSE FOUNDED 1666 BY KING CHARLES II. DEPTH 480 FEET". Thames Water Inspectors have tested the Old Well and found it to be some 350 deep and dye dropped into it eventually emerged in the horse pond in Ewell village.
During the 1840s The Warren became the saddling enclosure for the Derby and drew vast crowds, 'including nearly half the male portion of the peerage'. But the wind of religious scruple was blowing over the owner: his objection to betting, and therefore to racing forbade it, and saddling was then carried out at Langley Bottom, to which Prince Albert rode before the race.
Map of The Warren Estate, 1907
Warrener's Cottage
The Warren is said to have originated as a hunting lodge and 25 acre estate built for Charles II about 1666. The Hare Warren was set up by Lord Baltimore in 1720 and, although not complete, it is one of only two that still survive in England. The 18th century Warrener's Cottage still stands with the Warren entrance gate and wall integral with it, but the large 18th century mansion, Warren House, was destroyed by fire in 1914 and demolished about 1920. Only its gate posts remain. These pictures of Warrener's Cottage were taken in 2004.
Hare Warren Wall
The remains of the hare warren wall which enclosed the Warren. The following reference to hare coursing is taken from "Epsom, Town, Downs and Common". 'The hares lived in the Warren and the coursing was organised thus ; the wall had small traps on its outer downs side which were opened for the event. Beaters in the Warren drove hares out through the open traps, the coursers being outside with their dogs on leash. The hare was given a start, the dogs unleased, and everyone followed on the open downs to see which dog got it. None of the traps can now be seen.' Charles Calvert, 5th Lord Baltimore lived at nearby Woodcote Park mansion and it is possible that the Warren formed part of this estate as Lord Baltimore leased land at Langley from the Howard family of Ashtead Park. He had also inherited the Manor of Horton in Epsom. He was the great grandson of Cecil Calvert, 2nd Lord Baltimore who was the founder of Maryland. The Hare Warren is one of only two that still survive in England and is Grade II Listed by English Heritage.
Foaled during the great eclipse of 1 April 1764 at the Duke of Cumberland's stud in Windsor Great Park and so was named 'Eclipse'. An ugly looking animal and bad tempered, he was sent to a horse-breaker at Epsom. But it was soon discovered that 'Eclipse' was fast and had great stamina and was never matched. He was purchased by Col. Dennis O'Kelly and trained at his stables on the Downs now known as Downs House. He did not run his first race until he was five years old. Never beaten, 'Eclipse' was retired to stud at O'Kelly's establishment at Clay Hill (West Hill), Epsom. In 1906 it was estimated that 82 out of the 127 Derby winners were his descendants.
Amato winner of the 1838 Derby Stakes
Amato was owned by Sir Gilbert Heathcote of the Durdans in Chalk Lane and trained at Down's House stables.
The Durdans